Exploring Greenland’s breathtaking natural beauty is an adventure like no other. One of the most extraordinary ways to experience this is through a dogsledding journey. Gliding across rugged, untamed landscapes, powered by a team of eager sled dogs, is an unforgettable encounter with Greenland’s raw wilderness. Our guide, Mamarut, and his 12 strong sled dogs proved to be the perfect companions for our winter adventure. As the bitter cold of the long winter lingered, we set out to discover the Greenlandic hinterland, traversing icy terrains and snowy hills.

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Dogsledding in Greenland: With 12 Dogs searching for the best view of the Ilulissat Icefjord

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Leaning back, I grab tightly onto the ropes stretched over the reindeer hide on top of the sled. A pale sun tries in vain to break through a veil of gray clouds. The sun hides its full strength and beauty behind this mysterious cloak. A magical light envelops the snow-white landscape.

Despite the stillness of the wind, the icy cold air makes my cheeks glow. And as the sled glides almost silently through the snow-covered terrain, the pulling dogs find their rhythm. Tongues hanging out of their mouths, they work together towards a single goal: to explore Greenland’s hinterland. The undulating landscape takes them from gentle slopes to steeper hills—up and down, again and again.

A Winter Landscape Adventure by Dogsled

My hands grow numb. My fingers feel frozen from the snow swirling onto the reindeer hide where I’m gripping the ropes. Ice forms on the tethers. Wool gloves help, but only so much in such harsh winter conditions. Yet, the cold doesn’t bother me much at all. I’m overwhelmed by the determined, hardworking dogs, the harsh winter landscape, and the silence and calm all around me.

Our guide, Mamarut—a “musher,” as the sled dog handler is called—half-turns towards me and mentions that we’ll soon be tackling a steep hill. A few seconds later, the dogs’ pace slows slightly—they know the terrain well. They can sense that their work is about to get much harder. It’s instinctual, as though they’ve been trained from birth for this. The dogs’ heads turn more frequently now, their steps less determined as the challenge ahead looms.

The Physical Challenge of Greenland’s Winter Wonderland

The incline is truly impressive in its steepness and length. With an encouraging shout, Mamarut takes on his role as musher with even more vigor. Calling out commands and lightly tapping the snow with a leather whip, he motivates the dogs to give it their all. His focus is mainly on the two lead dogs, the alpha pair tied with red ropes. These are the pace-setters, the leaders who guide the ten other dogs tethered with green ropes. It’s fascinating to see the pack hierarchy in action — red leads green.

Pulling and straining against the steep incline, we slowly make our way to the top. Mamarut asks if I’m willing to hop off the sled and walk alongside it for a bit. No problem! The dogs seem to breathe a collective sigh of relief as the sled becomes significantly lighter. I sink slightly into the deeper snow and make a few clumsy, awkward attempts to jog behind the sled. The dogs quickly find their pace, much steadier now that the load is lighter. Meanwhile, I’m left huffing and puffing, struggling to keep up. “Just a little more,” I think to myself as I trudge up the steep hill alongside the sled.

Wow... What a View

A minute later, Mamarut lets me know that the hardest part is over, and I can climb back onto the reindeer hide. I don’t need to be told twice. Panting, I plop back down and let myself be overwhelmed once more by the serene yet imposing Greenlandic landscape. With renewed energy, the dogs push forward through the rugged terrain. The gray clouds above start to clear, and the sun peeks through with renewed vigor. Even a chilly wind picking up doesn’t dampen the mood.

We fall completely silent, our breath taken away, as we reach a wide-open expanse. The dogs cross this snowy, frozen lake, their tongues wagging out of their mouths. The white plain, covered by a thin layer of snow, is surrounded by rolling hills leading towards an opening between two steep cliffs. Beyond this opening lies a vast cliffside, revealing an even more immense open space before us.

Enjoying the Moment with the Sled Dogs

Is there a more ideal moment for a break? Anyone? Neither we nor the dogs hesitate to pause and take it all in. This surreal, magical landscape deserves time to soak in fully. Warm coffee and a delicious piece of Belgian chocolate add an extra layer of coziness. Is this still Greenland, or have we just crossed the gates of heaven? We pet the resting dogs, take a short walk, and, above all, marvel at the stunning, expansive wilderness stretching out before us—the frozen fjord, towering icebergs, and the endless horizon leave us in quiet awe. A pinch on the arm confirms we’re not dreaming.

Do I want to head back already? Honestly, no. But even now, as the Greenlandic spring brings longer daylight hours compared to the dark, harsh winter months, the day doesn’t last forever. The dogs bark enthusiastically, sensing that it’s time to return home. Off we go!

The Steep Return to Ilulissat

On the way back, Mamarut enthusiastically shares how he learned the tricks of the musher trade from his father. His love for the dogs is evident—it’s one of the reasons why this is his absolute dream job. A bit later, we approach the hill we had struggled to climb earlier. This time, we’re taking it downhill, and it promises to be an exhilarating ride.

Mamarut advises us to hold on tight and, most importantly, to enjoy the moment. Adrenaline surges as the tension builds. Standing at the back of the sled, Mamarut steers and brakes as necessary while the dogs sprint downhill. Snow and ice spray in all directions as the sled creaks and bounces over the uneven surface. It’s like an amusement park ride—but in real life. The flat plains at the bottom of the hill rush closer and closer until, half a minute later, the thrilling descent is over.

Greenlandic Sled Dogs: A Special Kind of Breed

The dogs take a short rest and receive encouraging pats from Mamarut. We’re almost home. Re-energized, they trot the final kilometer across flat terrain, seemingly savoring the last stretch of their hard day’s work. There, in the distance, is home, where delicious dog biscuits await them.

I can’t stop grinning after such a spectacular adventure. The sled comes to a stop, marking the end of the journey.

Greenlandic sled dogs are truly unique. No other dog breeds are allowed north of the Arctic Circle unless granted a specific exemption (such as for police or service dogs). These hardy working dogs thrive in the harshest winter conditions. In temperatures above 10-15 degrees Celsius—the Greenlandic summer—they lose their energy and are best left to rest. Loyal and affectionate, they quickly steal your heart. After spending an entire afternoon on a dogsled across snowy plains and icy hills, the love you feel for them is mutual.

Helping Care for the Sled Dogs

Upon returning, I had the unique chance to help remove the dogs’ harnesses and lead them to their resting place. At first, I was hesitant, unsure if they might instinctively react aggressively towards someone they’d just met a few hours earlier. But I quickly realized I had nothing to fear. The dogs, happy to be home, radiated love and gratitude for the help they received.

As I stroked and patted them goodbye, I felt an overwhelming sense of awe and gratitude for this once-in-a-lifetime adventure through Greenland’s “jungle.” No barking or howling could sum it up. Only one loud, long “Wow” felt fitting.